You’ll depart Antigua around 9:00AM and by 10:30AM you’re dropped off at the side of a non-descriptive road. There’s nothing but a steep and dusty path through farmers’ fields leading the way. It’s hard to imagine this is the foot of one of Guatemala’s most impressive volcanoes. Less than 100 steps in, you realise it’s going to be a tough hike ahead. Not only is the path steep, but the sun is pounding down and there’s little shade.

Half an hour later there’s an opportunity to stop and catch your breath at a brief 20 metre stretch of flat ground. Then the ascent starts again! At this point you’ll wonder why you signed up for the experience. But an experience it is, so onward you go.

The path winds and enters a lush forest and the ground is littered with black volcanic rocks pressing under your feet. You’re now on the side of Acatenango Volcano and there’ll be no more flat ground until you reach the summit.

Trees now shade the path giving some relief from the heat, but the path is about to get steeper. It will become slippy too. As you sink your feet in, they get buried in clouds of thick ash. Try to stay focused as the ash swirls in the air, turning your face and the inside or your nostrils black.

Turning left then right, left, then right, the path zig-zags through the forest. The air starts to thin and it feels like you’ll never reach Acatenango’s summit.

After three gruelling hours of exertion up Acatenango Volcano, the surrounding forest suddenly changes. The trees become bare, having been stripped of all their leaves by volcanic eruptions. With the view now clearing, take the time to lift your weary head and look around. It’s now you realise that you’re actually walking above the clouds.

“One more stop to go” the guide announces. “Maybe half an hour”. You know it will be longer, but hope gives some light relief to the group as the path on Acatenango Volcano subtly ascends and allows for a more steady hiking pace.

The hike may feel like it never ends, but as you work your way around the back of Acatenango, a sudden turn reveals something you never thought you’d see. The campsite awaits!

Relief kicks in. Tired and weary, back packs are laid down. People drop to the floor and it’s time for a well earned rest. This spot is also where you’ll sleep on Acatenango Volcano.

Suddenly, there’s a sound like a rocket going off. Heads raise up to look what’s causing the commotion. It’s Fuego Volcano erupting right before your eyes. Huge plumes of smoke bellow in to the air like an atomic cloud. It’s remarkable and all the hard work to get here is forgotten.

Keep your eyes fixated on Fuego Volcano, you won’t want to move for fear of missing the start of another eruption.

Some quick chill time

Watching an erupting volcano is the perfect backdrop to your rest break before phase two commences. This is a short 15 minute trek to watch the sunset over Fuego. A sky made of purple, orange, yellow and blue forms the beautiful backdrop.

It gets better though. As the light dims, the first glimpses of lava can be seen. Fuego doesn’t dribble lava down the side. It shoots it 100 feet in to the air. Nothing can prepare you for a site like this.

Back to the campsite, sitting patiently in the dark gives one of the most rewarding experiences imaginable. In pitch black you’ll hear a rumble, then see the lava in full effect. The earth vomiting right before your eyes.

It’s worth staying up for, as you tell yourself “I’ll just wait for it do erupt one more time”. Volcano watching suddenly becomes your new addiction.

Don’t stay up too late though, you’ll be undertaking another ascent at 4AM. This time your journey is in the pitch black of night. The timing may sound crazy, but another one and a half hours uphill leads to Acatenango Volcano’s crater. This is your viewpoint to watch the sun rise. Again, this ascent is not easy. Black volcanic dust slips and slides as you try to get a grip. It can take two steps to move forward one.

At the volano’s summit pain turns to pleasure. All you can see below you are clouds and volcanic peaks. The summit of Acatenango is 3,976 metres. To climb it in less than 24 hours is no mean feat. Nature has rewarded you handsomely with this unforgettable view.

An hour later and it’s time to descend. You’ll be thankful for trekking up in the dark. If the sunlight had shown you the previously dark path, you’d probably have wanted to go back down. It’s SO steep. Enjoy it though. It’s time to have some fun. I discovered there’s fewer simpler pleasures in life than running and jumping down a volcano. Your feet sink so deep in to the ash it’s as if you’re playing in snow. Although it sounds dangerous, it’s actually hard to fall down.

After witnessing a breathtaking sunrise from Acaentenago Volnaco, it’s time to return to the base. Descending Acatenango is of course easier than hiking to the top and with a confident swagger from what you just achieved, you’ll fly down.

Haggard trekkers on their ascent will pass you and stare. Their eyes pleading that the Acatenango hike is going to get easier for them. Just smile. You’ve been there. You know how hard it is. They have it all to come and like you, will be treated to the experience of a lifetime!